The sea surrounds the communities of this Arctic Archipelago and is literally everywhere. Not only do the people of Lofoten live next to the sea, but many make their living from it, one way or another.
As a visitor, you will learn that some of the most spectacular sights are only available to those who venture out on the water. Take a boat out to Trollfjorden, for example. Allow yourself to feel the majesty of the steep mountains on all sides of the fjord, plunging into the frothy sea.
You may spot a whale, porpoise, seal, otter or other animals that live in or near the sea. There are no guarantees you will see either, because this is nature, and nature is unpredictable. Birds, however, are all around, all the time.
If you are out at sea, you may spot a flock of birds on the horizon, and at first glance you might mistake them for seagulls, simply because they are so plentiful. Their flight patterns and behaviours might give you pause from a distance. As you get closer, you will realize that these are large birds of prey. What you are looking at will most likely be sea eagles and their wings can span over two meters. They will often come close to the boats, and if the winds are favourable, a bird might stretch out its talons and grab a fish from the sea, close enough that you can clearly make out the sharpness of its beak and count individual feathers. They may look ferocious, and sometimes they squabble, but like swans the sea eagles tend to mate for life.
One of the small communities that make up Lofoten is Svolvær. Svolvær is where you will find Væreiergården, the manor house, from 1828.
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Eagles are not the only species to enjoy fish from the sea. Depending on season, you may see fishing boats come in with their catch of cod or halibut, some of the fish as large as the people that pull them out of the sea. From January to Easter, the main catch is skrei – migrating cod that come from the Barents Sea to this very coast to spawn every year. The long journey makes their meat particularly firm and delicious, and there is not a better way to eat it than right away. The nose to tail eating trend can absolutely apply to fish. You may discover the crispy, juiciness of a fried cod tongue, or perhaps the tenderness of the small muscle behind the fish’s eye, which is a very special treat. Every part of the fish is put to good use, with respect for the finite riches of the sea that so many depend upon.
While you will be appropriately kitted out if you venture out to sea, the cold may creep up on you after a while. A hot sauna is the perfect antidote. And when you are well and truly heated up again, you may find the sea calling you once more. Don’t be afraid to go in, the cold is refreshing. Or perhaps step outside, but remain on the rocks, allowing the wind and the weather to cool you a bit more gently, as you gaze as far out to sea as the curve of the earth allows. Then heat, and repeat.
